A VISIT TO THE FLOATING CHURCH COMMUNITIES

After a 3 hour south easterly drive from Battambang we reached the edge of the swollen Tonle Sap river . This adjoins Tonle Sap lake which twice a year expands to five times its size flooding the surrounding plane before gradually receding . This forces those communities who economically depends on the river and lake to move back and forth with it.

Countless mobile businesses and homes were pitched on the final approaches to the river. Three weeks ago the water’s edge was 500m back up along the road. Today as we arrive one family, now  distant from the retreating water has just packed up their stock and is  skilfully pushing their hut balanced on a set of wheels to a new spot nearer to today’s water level.

Several youths from the floating church met us on arrival. We  boarded their motorboat and  ten minutes later, just after dark we reached the floating church of St Anthony at Chhnuk Tru. This was the first of two churches we would visit this weekend. Some parishioners were already waiting when we arrived and Sister Mary the resident catechist rang the church bell  ( the rim of a car wheel) and soon other families of parishioners paddled out of the darkness to join us for the start of evening Mass. After an enthusiastic and joyful Mass they all climbed aboad their boats and paddled off  in darkness to their nearby houseboats.

We slept in the church that night and  after breakfast next morning some parishioners took us ashore in the parish boat to rejoin our car. We then drove a short distance to the edge of the lake at Kompong Luong. Again we were met by a group of parishioners who took us in a small motorboat out into the lake towards the floating village. Hundreds of colourful floating houseboats and all kinds of businesses were anchored in street like rows. After about 15 minutes we caught sight of the tiny cross topped spire of St Peter. The parishioners were already gathered when we arrived and warmly welcomed us aboad for Sunday morning Mass.

The communities of both floating parishes celebrate Mass in the Khmer language but the gospel reading is repeated in Vietnamese together with certain additional prayers. This is to reflect the Vietnamese origin of most parishioners many of whom are also stateless and spend their time permanently on the water living as fishermen.

I was delighted to have had the opportunity to visit these parishes and meet the people bound together by their traditional faith and strong sense of community.    

by Tony Fenlon